Diary of Food & Wine
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Gnocchi & the lost recipies
Unlike durum wheat pasta, gnocchi are an easy homemade dish made with simple ingredients found in any kitchen. Over time, many variations of this pasta have emerged, forming a distinct family of their own. Today, Italy primarily recognizes three categories of gnocchi: potato, semolina (also known as Roman-style), and knödel, a German-rooted name meaning "dumpling." Additional types include Sardinian gnocchetti known as malloreddus, which share more similarities with semolina pasta. In the past, there were even more types, some of which have vanished from our tables.
The birth of gnocchi recipes can be traced back to the late 16th century, when Cristoforo Messisbugo and Bartolomeo Scappi, two renowned Renaissance chefs, first published them. These "maccaroni called gnocchi" were made with flour, breadcrumbs, boiling water, and eggs, then passed through a grater, similar to today's potato gnocchi. Served dry, they were typically seasoned with butter, cheese, spices, and optionally, sugar. This preparation persisted for centuries with slight variations, such as adding more cheese and egg yolks to create a mixture resembling modern passatelli.
One of the oldest water-based gnocchi recipes dates back to Francesco Leonardi's "Apicio moderno" from 1790. It instructs to boil water with butter and salt, then add enough flour to form a manageable dough. After cooking and cooling, mix with egg yolks, a white, grated Parmesan, and shape into small diamond-shaped gnocchi. Boil until they puff up and become spongy, then remove and drain.
Once prepared, they are layered in a baking dish with butter, a little cream, and Parmesan before being baked. Optionally, cinnamon, nutmeg, or pepper can be added.
**Potato Gnocchi**
Although the potato had been known and described by agronomists since the late Renaissance, it wasn't until the dramatic outcomes of the famine of 1764 that recipe books began recommending its consumption mixed with flour, either in the form of bread or pasta. The bread solution never gained traction due to its consistency, which dissolved when wet, rendering it unsuitable as a base for soups, a staple food of the time. However, introducing boiled potatoes into gnocchi had some success, but as late as the early 20th century, this recipe was just one of many variants in cuisine.
**First Potato Gnocchi Recipes**
The first potato gnocchi recipes emerged in the late 18th century, where boiled and mashed potatoes were not simply mixed with flour but incorporated into the composition of water-based gnocchi (see above). For decades, various other ingredients were added to potato gnocchi, such as egg yolks, cream, parsley, garlic, ricotta, and veal fat. Pellegrino Artusi in 1891 described two recipes: one with boiled and mashed potatoes mixed with minced chicken breast, Parmesan, egg yolks, flour, and nutmeg. And the second, much simpler, with just potatoes and flour.
This minimalist version, destined for great success, appeared as early as 1871 under the name "gnocchi alla marchigiana," but in 1908, the first Italian traditional cuisine cookbook included them under Bolognese specialties, while the "Talisman of Happiness" in 1927 spoke of them as a typical dish of Roman trattorias served on Thursdays.
**Roman-style Gnocchi**
But the Roman-style gnocchi we know today are quite different. Their peculiarity lies in being made from a polenta that, once cooled and cut into pieces, is not boiled in water but directly baked with butter and cheese. They seem to appear for the first time in "Il nuovo cuoco Ticinese" from 1846, a cookbook not exactly from Lazio, but one that must have enjoyed an unusually broad perspective due to its geographical location.
The initial version consisted of flour, milk, egg yolks, scented with grated lemon zest. With slight variations (whole eggs, absence of lemon, and the addition of Gruyère cheese), it persisted into the early 20th century. Semolina replaced common flour only in the 1930s, establishing the recipe we know today. Another type of Roman-style gnocchi based on potatoes and chicken breast served in broth is mentioned in cookbooks, essentially identical to the one described by Pellegrino Artusi in the late 19th century.
**Lost Gnocchi Varieties**
The surviving gnocchi today are only a fraction of those recorded in cookbooks over the centuries, many of which have been forgotten. There were "gnocchi d'oro" made from corn flour, "alla dama" gnocchi kneaded with cooked egg yolks, rice gnocchi, chickpea gnocchi, pea gnocchi, cream gnocchi, and many more. Among recipes and variations, Giulia Lazzari Turco's "Practical Manual of Cooking, Pastry, and Pantry for Family Use" mentions at least 30 types to serve in broth and 24 to serve dry: a wealth of specialties for those who wish to experiment with authentic but unusual Italian traditional cuisine.
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Ricetta del giorno: Tiramisu'
Indulge in the iconic Tiramisu, a heavenly Italian dessert layered with creamy mascarpone cheese, coffee-soaked ladyfinger biscuits, and a dusting of bitter cocoa. Its origins steeped in Venetian tradition, this decadent treat has captivated palates worldwide, offering a perfect balance of sweetness and richness.
**Ingredients**
- 4 medium eggs
- 500g Mascarpone Santa Lucia Galbani
- 4 tablespoons sugar
- 300g ladyfinger biscuits
- 8 cups of cold coffee (prepared with a moka pot)
- 50g liquor of your choice
- Sifted bitter cocoa
- A pinch of salt
**Preparation**
Before diving into the process, ensure the Mascarpone Santa Lucia is at room temperature, and the eggs are also at room temperature. Separate the egg yolks from the whites and mix 1 tablespoon of sugar with the yolks until the mixture becomes pale and fluffy. Add the Mascarpone Santa Lucia and mix until smooth. Beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form, then gently fold them into the yolk and mascarpone mixture. Prepare the coffee syrup by mixing 1 tablespoon of sugar with the liquor and cold coffee. Assemble the tiramisu by layering the cream mixture and ladyfinger biscuits soaked in the coffee syrup. Refrigerate for at least two hours before serving.
**Variations**
Our Tiramisu recipe offers endless opportunities for customization. You can incorporate strawberries, add chocolate shavings to the cream, or even try an eggless version. Other options include using pastry cream, different types of biscuits like pandoro or panettone, or creating individual servings or different shapes.
**Tips**
Choose soft and flat biscuits to absorb the coffee well. Beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form for a creamy and fluffy texture. Use coffee prepared with a moka pot and allow it to cool before soaking the biscuits. For an extra kick, add liquor such as Marsala or limoncello. Dust with bitter cocoa and refrigerate for at least two hours before serving to let the flavors meld.
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Coastal delight: Alici fritte
Today we want to share with you our cherished “Alici Fritte” as simple as tasty, this traditional coastal dish is definitely one of our signature dish and perfect pairing with a spritz for the aperitif that you deserve.
**Ingredients**
- Fresh small anchovies
- Flour
- Salt
- Olive oil for frying
- Fresh thyme leaves for garnish
**Preparation**
Begin by cleaning the anchovies, rinsing them thoroughly under cold water, and patting them dry with paper towels. Our small anchovies are so petite that they can be fried and enjoyed whole. Heat olive oil in a deep fryer or a large skillet over medium-high heat. Dredge the anchovies in flour, shaking off any excess, and carefully place them in the hot oil. Fry the anchovies in batches until they are golden brown and crispy, about 1-2 minutes per side. Remove them from the oil and drain on paper towels to remove any excess oil. Sprinkle with salt and garnish with fresh thyme leaves before serving.
**Variations**
Our Alici Fritte recipe can be customized to suit your taste preferences. You can add a squeeze of lemon juice for a burst of acidity or serve them with a side of marinara sauce for dipping. Additionally, you can experiment with different herbs and spices to enhance the flavor of the dish.
**Tips**
For the best results, use fresh anchovies that are firm and shiny. Fry the anchovies in hot oil to ensure they become crispy without absorbing too much oil. Serve the Alici Fritte as an appetizer or antipasto, accompanied by a glass of chilled white wine for a truly authentic Italian experience.21:04/-strong/-heart:>:o:-((:-hSentPreview before sendingDrop Files here to preview before sending
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Prosciutto di Parma: A Culinary Legend
The Prosciutto di Parma transcends mere DOP recognition; it embodies Italian quality, tradition, and gastronomic culture, reigning as the king not only of hams but of all cured meats. Its rosy hue, sweet flavor, and delicate aroma offer an unparalleled tasting experience, steeped in centuries of artisanal expertise.
**Origins**
Dating back to Roman times, the origins of Prosciutto di Parma are shrouded in legend and historical accounts. Cato the Elder mentioned a preservation method for pork thighs resembling the process used for Prosciutto di Parma. Varro, an ancient agronomist, documented detailed instructions for ham production, pinpointing the Po Valley as a key production area.
**Historical Significance**
Legendary figures like Hannibal celebrated victories with salted pork thighs, possibly the precursors to Prosciutto di Parma. Even the Lombards, drawn to the pork-rich region of Parma, utilized abundant salt reserves for meat preservation.
**Consorzio del Prosciutto di Parma**
Since 1963, the Consorzio del Prosciutto di Parma has safeguarded traditional values and artisanal quality, symbolized by the iconic five-pointed crown brand. From selecting prime ingredients to meticulous aging, every step ensures the utmost quality and authenticity.
Evidence of Prosciutto di Parma's antiquity extends beyond written records to artistic depictions. The Cathedral of Reims showcases scenes of norcini, or pork butchers, offering Prosciutto di Parma to merchants, indicating Gauls' knowledge of this delicacy.
**Literary and Culinary Renaissance**
From the 16th century onwards, Prosciutto di Parma garnered attention in literary works by figures like Pomponio Torelli and Alessandro Tassoni. It graced the menu of illustrious events, such as the Colonna wedding and Queen Christina of Sweden's visit to Pope Alexander VII at Palazzo Farnese.
**Notable Admirers**
During the 17th and 18th centuries, Prosciutto di Parma became a staple provision for Genoese corsairs, evident in ship provisions logs. Esteemed musicians, including Giuseppe Verdi and Gioacchino Rossini, also expressed their fondness for this delicacy.
**Modern Milestones**
In recent history, pivotal moments include the establishment of the Prosciutto di Parma Consortium in 1963, dedicated to its protection and global promotion. The inception of the Parma Ham Festival in 1997 further celebrates this culinary heritage annually in Langhirano, Parma, with culinary events and expert discussions.
**Prosciutto di Parma: Production**
Prosciutto di Parma DOP entails strict adherence to production protocols, ensuring each phase occurs within the Parma region. Beginning with carefully selected pork from specific breeds, the process involves precise aging and meticulous attention to detail,.
**Prosciutto di Parma: Final Phases and Culinary Delights**
After aging, the Prosciutto di Parma production undergoes two additional phases. Firstly, the "sondaggio" entails an olfactory examination using a horse bone to absorb and evaluate the product's aroma. Expert noses discern its olfactory characteristics.
The final phase is branding. If the ham passes all production stages and external inspections, it receives the iconic five-pointed crown logo branding, ensuring its authenticity as Prosciutto di Parma DOP.
**Cooking with Prosciutto di Parma**
With its nutritional value and versatility, Prosciutto di Parma enriches various culinary creations. Low in fat yet rich in minerals, proteins, and vitamins, it complements diverse dietary regimes.
For a savory breakfast twist, sauté potatoes in butter and Italian extra virgin olive oil, then add tomatoes, mushrooms, and eggs cooked to preference. Serve with thinly sliced Prosciutto di Parma DOP Levoni.
Indulge in a simple yet flavorful lunch with risotto featuring Prosciutto di Parma, ricotta, and basil. Sauté Carnaroli rice with olive oil, shallots, and garlic, adding white wine, lemon zest, and hot vegetable broth until cooked. Finish with ricotta, Parmesan, and fresh basil leaves, garnishing with sliced Prosciutto di Parma DOP
**Production and Culinary Inspiration**
Crafting Prosciutto di Parma DOP involves strict adherence to production protocols, ensuring each phase occurs within the Parma region. Beginning with carefully selected pork from specific breeds, the process involves precise aging and meticulous attention to detail, culminating in the creation of this revered delicacy.
**Final Phases and Culinary Delights**
After aging, Prosciutto di Parma undergoes two additional phases. The "sondaggio" involves an olfactory examination using a horse bone to evaluate its aroma. Expert noses discern its olfactory characteristics. The final phase is branding. If the ham passes all production stages and inspections, it receives the iconic five-pointed crown logo, ensuring authenticity.
**Cooking with Prosciutto di Parma**
With its nutritional value and versatility, Prosciutto di Parma enriches various culinary creations. Low in fat yet rich in minerals, proteins, and vitamins, it complements diverse dietary regimes.
Regardless of your culinary application, Prosciutto di Parma DOP will not only meet your expectations but also delight you in unique ways every time.
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Ragout alla Bolognese, the official recipe!
**Origin of Ragù**
Ragù, one of Italy's most renowned recipes worldwide, traces its roots back to Renaissance France before journeying to the Neapolitan Bourbon court and spreading across Italy. In those days, culinary trends, like fashion, were set by nobility.
**Evolution**
Initially, Ragù derived from the French term "ragout," describing slow-cooked meat and vegetable stews. Its medieval predecessor consisted of slowly stewed meat, vegetables, or fish, evolving with varied cuts, spices, and garnishes. Notably, tomatoes were absent during this period.
**Italian Adoption**
By 1773, Vincenzo Corrado's "Il Cuoco Galante" mentioned an early version of Ragù, with undefined ingredients like vegetables, meats, or even eggs, cooked in broth. It gradually integrated into Italian cuisine, introducing new variations and ingredients, including tomatoes in 1790.
**Modernization**
Ragù remained primarily a meat dish with sauce until the twentieth century when tomato sauce and pasta became widespread. Today, it's a beloved staple in Italian cuisine worldwide.
During the 19th century, Ragù expanded across the Italian peninsula with regional adaptations. These variations included pork meat, small meatballs (as in Neapolitan and Abruzzese traditions), and pairing with local pasta types like handmade pasta in Bologna.
**Ragù Bolognese Emergence**
In 1891, Pellegrino Artusi's "Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Eating Well" inadvertently laid the groundwork for one of Italy's most famous recipes: Bolognese macaroni. While tomatoes were absent, salted pork belly, veal, celery, carrot, and onion were present, cooked with meat broth. Artusi also suggested enriching the sauce with dried mushrooms, truffles, chicken livers, and cream, creating a rich and flavorful white ragù.
**Transformation**
The definitive transformation occurred in the early 20th century when tagliatelle replaced macaroni, and tomato became an essential ingredient. Fresh pork meat was added post-World War II, as documented in "Il Cucchiaio d'Argento," with a recipe largely unchanged to this day.
**Recipe Evolution**
Despite the 1982 patent by the Bolognese Delegation of the Italian Academy of Cuisine, the recipe remains subject to variations, reflecting the diversity of Italian cuisine across households and families.
RAGÙ BOLOGNESE - THE OFFICIAL RECIPE
The recipe for “Classic Bolognese Ragù” was patented at the Bologna Chamber of Commerce on October 17, 1982, by the Bologna Delegation of the Italian Academy of Cuisine.
Ingredients:
300 g coarsely ground beef
150 g pancetta
50 g carrot
50 g celery stalk
30 g onion
300 g tomato sauce or peeled tomatoes
½ glass of dry white wine
½ glass of whole milk
a little broth
extra virgin olive oil or butter
salt
pepper
½ glass of cream (optional)
Preparation:
Start by dicing the pancetta and finely chopping it with a mezzaluna knife. Melt it in a thick terracotta or aluminum pan, about 20 cm in diameter, along with 3 tablespoons of oil or 50 g of butter. Add the finely chopped vegetables and let them cook gently. Incorporate the minced meat, stirring well until it's cooked and sizzling. Pour in the wine and stir until the alcohol evaporates completely. Add the passata or peeled tomatoes, cover, and simmer slowly for approximately 2 hours, adding broth as needed. Towards the end, add the milk to balance the acidity of the tomato. Season with salt and pepper. Finally, according to Bolognese tradition, add cream if serving with dry pasta, or leave as is for tagliatelle.
This is the “updated” recipe of the real Bolognese ragù, patented at the Bologna Chamber of Commerce on October 17, 1982, by the Bolognese delegation of the Italian Academy of Cuisine .
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Treasure from the sea: Polipetti alla luciana
Baby Octopus, Cherry Tomatoes, Parsley, and Black Olives: Essential Ingredients for a Delightful Neapolitan Dish.
Polipetti alla Luciana is a beloved dish in Neapolitan cuisine, showcasing the rich history of Santa Lucia, an ancient district of Naples. To fully appreciate this recipe, it's important to understand its origins and cultural significance beyond just the ingredients and preparation.
** The Origins of Polipetti alla Luciana **
The dish gets its name from the "Luciani," the inhabitants of the Borgo Santa Lucia. This district, nestled between the waters where the siren Parthenope was said to have immersed herself and the hill of Pizzofalcone, has always had a special connection with the sea. Many of its residents were fishermen, and their daily routines of setting out and returning from the sea were deeply ritualistic.
Early morning scenes would see fishermen dragging their rowboats from the caves of Chiatamone to the water's edge. After hours at sea, they returned with their catch—anchovies, clams, bream, cod, and the ever-present octopus—ready to be sold and transformed into various dishes, including the iconic Polipetti alla Luciana.
In some cases, the Luciani used a unique fishing technique involving terracotta jars filled with white stones, placed on the seabed to attract and capture octopuses overnight. This method ensured a good catch with minimal effort.
However, the picturesque beaches of Santa Lucia have changed dramatically due to urban redevelopment efforts starting in the late 19th century. The "Risanamento" project, aimed at improving living conditions, led to the displacement of the Luciani from their homes. The old neighborhood made way for bourgeois residences, altering the area's character and severing its connection to the sea.
** The Recipe for Polipetti alla Luciana **
When you savor this dish, you're tasting more than just a restaurant favorite. You're experiencing a piece of history, quietly telling the story of a community through a simple yet flavorful meal.
Here's the traditional recipe as cherished by our Grandma Titina.
Ingredients:
- 1 kg octopus
- 1 kg peeled tomatoes
- 1 glass dry white wine
- 2 cloves garlic
- 100 g black olives
- Parsley
- Olive oil
- Salt and pepper to taste
Preparation:
Clean the octopus and place them in a pot without adding water or oil.
After ten minutes, pour in the wine and let it evaporate completely.
Add the tomatoes, garlic, pitted and chopped black olives, parsley, and olive oil.
4. Season with salt and pepper, then cook for fifteen minutes.
5. Serve the octopus on toasted bread or use it to dress al dente pasta.
Enjoying Polipetti alla Luciana is more than a culinary experience; it's a connection to the past and the traditions of Naples.
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